Sewing with Knits: Handling and Construction Tips

Sewing with knits can seem a bit intimidating at first, but trust me, once you get the hang of it, you’ll be hooked! As someone who’s sewn my fair share of stretchy fabrics over the years, I can tell you—knits offer a world of opportunity for comfortable, stylish garments. But, like anything new, there’s a bit of a learning curve. So, let’s dive into some tips to make your sewing with knits experience easier and more enjoyable!

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Understanding Knits: What’s the Big Deal?

Okay, before we dive into techniques, let’s talk about what makes knits different from other fabrics. Unlike woven fabrics, which have threads going in both directions, knits are made from interlocking loops of yarn. This gives them a natural stretch, and that’s exactly what makes sewing with knits so unique.

If you’ve ever tried to sew a stretchy fabric like jersey or spandex without the right tools or techniques, you probably noticed the fabric pulls, warps, or just doesn’t look quite right. Don’t worry—you’re not alone! But once you learn how to handle and construct with these stretchy materials, you’ll never look back.

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Picking the Right Needle and Thread

Here’s the thing: not all needles and threads are created equal when it comes to sewing with knits. I learned this the hard way, trust me.

When you’re sewing knits, you’ll want to use a ballpoint needle. Unlike regular sewing needles, these have a rounded tip that slides between the fibers of the knit fabric instead of piercing through them. This prevents snags and tears and helps create smooth, clean seams. You can find ballpoint needles at any fabric store—they’re totally worth it!

As for thread, a polyester thread works best for knits. It has a little give, so it’ll stretch with the fabric instead of breaking. Cotton thread can snap, which is a major bummer when you’re working on your project and things go wrong.

Tension Settings and Stitch Choices

Now, let’s talk tension. If you’ve sewn with woven fabrics before, you might be used to a tighter tension, but with knits, you’ll want to loosen things up just a tad. Too much tension can cause your fabric to pucker or bunch up, and nobody wants that!

As for stitch choices, a regular straight stitch will work for some knit fabrics, but a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch is your best friend when working with stretchy materials. These stitches allow the fabric to move without breaking the thread, and they give your garment the flexibility it needs to stay comfortable.

Using a Walking Foot or a Serger

Sewing with knits requires a bit of extra help, and one of the best investments I’ve made is getting a walking foot. If you’ve never used one before, let me tell you—it’s like magic. A walking foot helps feed the fabric evenly through your sewing machine, preventing that annoying stretching or shifting that often happens with knits.

But, if you’re ready to take your knit game to the next level, a serger machine is a dream for knit construction. Sergers are designed to trim, sew, and finish seams all in one go, and they’re especially great for knits because they allow the fabric to stretch without distortion. Sure, sergers can be a little intimidating at first, but once you get the hang of it, they’re totally worth it.

Preparing Your Knit Fabric

Before you even think about cutting into that soft, stretchy fabric, you’ll want to do a little prep work. First, be sure to wash and dry your fabric before cutting. This helps prevent shrinkage later on. Knits tend to stretch and move around a lot, so pre-washing helps stabilize the fabric, making your project a lot easier.

I also recommend using fabric weights instead of pins when working with knits. Pins can leave little holes in the fabric and can distort the stretchiness. Fabric weights, on the other hand, will hold your fabric in place without causing damage.

Cutting and Sewing

When it comes time to cut your fabric, you’ll want to make sure you’re cutting with the stretch going in the right direction—usually horizontally, across the body. This ensures your garment fits properly and stretches where it needs to.

If you’re cutting knit fabric for the first time, I’ve found that using sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter is key. Dull scissors can make the edges messy, and that can really show in the final product.

When you’re sewing, take it slow. It’s easy to rush, but knits need a little extra care. Keep your stitches even, and remember to stretch the fabric gently as you sew. Don’t force it through the machine, as this can cause distortion.

Don’t Forget About Finishing Your Seams

Once you’ve got your garment constructed, finishing your seams is important to prevent them from unraveling. You can use a zigzag stitch, a serger, or even a French seam to keep everything neat and secure.

I love finishing seams with a serger, especially for knit fabrics, because it makes everything look so professional. But if you don’t have one, a simple zigzag stitch will do the job just fine.

Knit Sewing Made Easy for Comfy, Stylish Projects

Sewing with knits doesn’t have to be complicated, but it does require the right tools and a little patience. Once you’ve got your techniques down, you’ll find that knits open up a whole new world of sewing possibilities—from comfortable T-shirts to cozy sweaters, and even athletic wear!

So, the next time you’re eyeing a beautiful stretch fabric, don’t be afraid to dive in. With these handling and construction tips, you’ll be creating stunning knit garments in no time!