Sewing Knitwear: Tips for Working with Knitted Fabrics

If you’ve ever tried sewing with knit fabrics, you probably know that they can be a bit tricky at first. Don’t worry, though, I’ve been there! I remember the first time I attempted to sew a stretchy sweater, and the fabric kept bunching up like a tangled mess. I was frustrated but also super determined to figure it out. Fast forward to today, and I’ve learned some key tricks to make sewing knitwear a lot easier and more enjoyable.

In this post, I’ll share some of my best tips for working with knitted fabrics, from understanding the stretch factor to making sure your seams stay neat and tidy. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a beginner, you’ll find practical advice here that will help you work with knitwear like a champ. So grab your fabric, and let’s dive in.

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Understanding Knit Fabrics

First things first, let’s talk about what makes knit fabrics different from other materials. Unlike woven fabrics, which are made from threads that go in two directions, knits are made by looping yarn together. This gives them a natural stretch and flexibility. It also means that they have a bit more give, which is great for comfy clothes like t-shirts, leggings, and even cozy sweaters.

However, this stretchiness can make knit fabrics a little tricky to sew with. The fabric tends to shift around as you sew, and without the right tools or techniques, it can stretch out of shape. But don’t worry! With the right tips, you’ll be sewing perfect knitwear in no time.

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Choose the Right Needle and Thread

One of the biggest mistakes people make when sewing knit fabrics is using the wrong needle or thread. I’ll admit, I made this mistake in the beginning, and let’s just say the results weren’t pretty.

The key is to use a ballpoint needle instead of a regular universal needle. A ballpoint needle has a rounded tip that can slip between the knit fibers without snagging or causing runs. Trust me, it makes a huge difference. You’ll also want to use a stretchy or polyester thread. Regular cotton thread doesn’t have enough give for knits, and you’ll end up with popped seams. A little stretchy thread goes a long way.

Use a Stretch Stitch or a Serger

If you’ve ever sewn with knit fabrics, you probably know that a regular straight stitch just doesn’t cut it. When you stretch the fabric, those seams can snap easily, leaving you with some very frustrating results.

The trick is to use a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch, both of which allow the seam to stretch with the fabric. This will prevent those seams from popping open when you wear your finished piece. If you have a serger, even better! A serger is a dream when it comes to sewing knits because it trims the fabric edges as it sews, preventing any fraying.

I remember the first time I used a serger on knitwear – it felt like magic! The stitching was so neat, and I didn’t have to worry about those annoying raw edges anymore.

Use Pins or Clips to Hold the Fabric in Place

When you’re working with knit fabrics, pinning can be a bit of a challenge. Regular pins can distort the fabric and leave unsightly holes. I recommend using fabric clips instead. These are especially great for knits because they won’t leave any marks or cause your fabric to shift too much. I found these clips to be a lifesaver, especially when working with thicker knits like sweater fabric.

If you do prefer pins, try using ballpoint pins. They’re gentle on the fabric and will prevent snags. Just be sure not to over-pin, as knit fabrics don’t need as much holding down as woven fabrics.

Don’t Stretch the Fabric While Sewing

This is one mistake I see a lot of beginners make, and I totally get it – you see the fabric stretching, and you think you need to stretch it as you sew. But trust me, you don’t.

The best way to sew knit fabrics is to let the fabric feed through the machine naturally without pulling or stretching it. Pulling the fabric can distort the knit and cause your seams to stretch unevenly. So, when you’re sewing, just let the machine do its thing. It’ll keep everything nice and even.

Keep the Seams Neat

One thing you’ll notice when working with knit fabrics is that they tend to roll and curl at the edges. This is totally normal, but it can make it tricky to keep your seams looking neat and tidy. To help with this, I recommend finishing the edges of your knitwear with a serger or a zigzag stitch. This will prevent the fabric from fraying and will give your seams a professional finish.

Another tip is to use a fusible knit stay tape on the edges of your fabric. This helps stabilize the fabric and keeps everything in place while you sew. It’s especially helpful for hems and neckline edges, which can be more prone to stretching out of shape.

Practice Makes Perfect

Sewing with knit fabrics can feel intimidating at first, but I promise it gets easier with practice. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different fabrics and stitches. Start with something simple, like a basic t-shirt, and as you get more comfortable, try tackling more complex projects like a sweater or a dress.

In fact, I find that the more I work with knit fabrics, the more I love them. They’re comfortable, versatile, and with the right techniques, they’re a joy to sew.

Closing Thoughts on Sewing Knitwear

Sewing knitwear doesn’t have to be a stressful experience. With the right tools, techniques, and a little patience, you can create beautiful, stretchy garments that fit perfectly. Whether you’re making cozy sweatshirts or stylish dresses, the key is to work with the fabric, not against it. And remember, it’s okay to make mistakes – every sewing project is a learning experience.

Happy sewing, and I can’t wait to hear about your next knitwear project.