How to Sew Stretchy Fabrics Without Puckering

If you’ve ever sat down to sew a new project and wondered how to sew stretchy fabrics without puckering, you’re not alone. Stretchy fabrics like knits, jerseys, and spandex can be a real pain in the… sewing machine. I used to avoid them entirely—until one day, I really wanted to make my own T-shirt, and the only fabric I had was a slinky knit. Spoiler alert: my first attempt looked like it had gone through a blender.

But don’t worry—I’ve learned a few tricks since then, and I’m excited to share them with you. So, if you’ve ever felt like your stretchy projects turn into wavy, puckered disasters, let’s fix that together.

Read More About How to Sew Stretchy Fabrics Without Puckering

So, Why the Puckering?

Before we dive into the how-to part, let’s talk about why stretchy fabric puckers in the first place. It’s usually a combo of things: the fabric stretching while you sew, the wrong needle, too much tension, or just not supporting the fabric correctly. And trust me, even experienced sewists run into this.

You’re not doing anything “wrong”—stretch fabrics just have their own personalities. Think of them like toddlers: flexible, energetic, and occasionally unpredictable.

More Things to Know About How to Sew Stretchy Fabrics Without Puckering

Pick the Right Needle (Seriously, This Matters)

I can’t tell you how many times I tried sewing stretchy fabrics with a regular universal needle and ended up screaming internally. If you’re serious about learning how to sew stretchy fabrics without puckering, swap that needle out for a ballpoint or stretch needle. It slides between the fabric fibers instead of stabbing through them, which makes all the difference.

I use a size 75/11 or 90/14 ballpoint for most of my projects, and it’s like the clouds part and angels sing. Okay, maybe not angels—but definitely less frustration.

Let Your Machine Help You Out

Now let’s talk about your machine. Some machines have a stretch stitch setting (it kind of looks like a lightning bolt). If yours does, give it a try! If not, a narrow zigzag stitch can work wonders. Why? Because it stretches with the fabric.

Another lifesaver? A walking foot. I avoided getting one for years because I thought it was just for quilting. Nope. Total game-changer for sewing knits. It feeds both layers of fabric evenly so they don’t shift or stretch out of shape while you sew.

Don’t Pull the Fabric—Guide It

This was my biggest mistake at the beginning. I’d pull the fabric through the machine, trying to “help” it along. But that just made the stitches stretch out and—yep—pucker like crazy.

Let your feed dogs do their job. Just gently guide the fabric. It might feel like you’re not doing enough, but trust me, that’s the sweet spot.

Test, Test, Test!

Before you go straight into sewing your actual project, take a scrap of the same fabric and test out your stitch settings. You’ll want to play around with stitch length, tension, and type of stitch until you find the combo that works best. It’s a little bit of trial and error—but it’s better to mess up on a scrap than on the sleeve of a new hoodie.

Stabilize When You Need To

Sometimes, even with all the right settings, a stretchy fabric still acts out—especially around the seams or hems. In that case, don’t be afraid to bring in some backup. You can use clear elastic, fusible stay tape, or even tissue paper under the fabric while you sew. That extra stability can stop the fabric from getting all wobbly and weird.

Once I used toilet paper in a pinch (don’t judge me—it worked!) and just tore it away afterward. Desperate times, creative solutions.

Patience Beats Speed

Sewing stretchy fabrics without puckering isn’t about speed. In fact, the slower I go, the better things turn out. I used to be a “pedal to the metal” kind of sewist until I realized that slow and steady saves me hours of seam ripping later.

So yeah—take your time. Stretchy fabrics aren’t in a rush, and you shouldn’t be either.

A Quick Note About Thread

Use a polyester thread, not cotton. Polyester has a bit of give, which means it won’t snap when your stretchy fabric moves. Cotton thread is stiff and will break more easily. Learn from my heartbreak when a seam burst after one wear because I used the wrong thread. Oof.

How to Sew Stretchy Fabrics Without Puckering: You’ve Got This

Look, I get it. Stretchy fabrics can feel like the final boss of sewing. But once you get the hang of how to sew stretchy fabrics without puckering, it opens up a whole new world—comfy tees, leggings, cozy dresses, even athletic gear.

If I can go from puckered messes to proudly wearing my homemade hoodie (that doesn’t look like it fought a lawnmower), so can you.

So next time you spot a soft, drapey knit at the fabric store, don’t walk away. Grab it, remember these tips, and show that stretchy fabric who’s boss.

And hey—if you end up sewing something amazing, send me a pic. I’d love to see what you make.