Beginners Guide to Setting Up Your Sewing Machine

Hey there! I’m going to walk you through the basics of sewing machine setup that would normally be shown in a beginner’s course. No pictures needed—I’ll explain everything in a way that’s easy to follow.

Keep in mind that every machine is different but many will be similar in setup. The main things is to read the instruction manual that came with your machine.

Let’s Talk Thread First

Starting with thread might seem small, but it makes a huge difference in your projects. As a beginner, 100% polyester thread is your best friend for most projects. Your machine might have come with some thread, or maybe you picked up some inexpensive polyester options. These are totally fine when you’re learning.

Here’s the real deal though—cheaper polyester threads tend to be a bit fluffier and you can usually break them with your hands. They’re perfect for practice projects or things that don’t need to last forever.

Once you’re ready to level up and make things that’ll really last, I’d recommend Gutermann 100% polyester thread (they call it “Sew All”). This stuff is seriously strong—you can’t break it with your hands—and it gives your projects that professional finish we all want.

Pro tip: When shopping for Gutermann thread, look at the spool tops. The polyester ones have white or cream tops. This matters because Gutermann makes lots of different threads with different colored tops (blue, gray, green) for different purposes. The white/cream top is what you want for regular sewing.

Choosing the Right Needle

Needle size is another game-changer for your sewing. If you bought a new machine, you probably got some needles with it (score!). But if you picked up a secondhand machine, treat yourself to a fresh pack—you don’t know how worn those old needles might be.

I personally love Schmetz needles. For most beginner-friendly fabrics, you’ll want an 80/12 or 90/14 size (that’s metric/imperial). These sizes work perfectly for cottons, poly-cottons, linen, and lightweight upholstery—exactly the fabrics you should start with.

As you advance, remember:

• Lighter fabrics like silk? Go smaller (75/11 or even tinier)
• Heavier stuff like denim or canvas? Go bigger (110/18)

Now, how often should you change your needle? Honestly, I don’t follow strict rules about changing after so many hours of sewing. Who keeps track of that anyway? Instead, I recommend:

• Starting with a fresh needle for special projects
• Using a new needle when switching to lightweight fabrics
• Checking that your needle isn’t bent (lay it on a flat surface)
• Always testing your fabric before starting a project

If your fabric puckers or snags during your test run, your needle might be blunt or the wrong size for the job.

Getting to Know Your Machine

Every machine is different, but they all have some key parts you need to know. I’m using a Husqvarna Viking Emerald 118, but don’t worry if yours is different. Just grab your manual (or download one online) so you can follow along.

The main controls you’ll use as a beginner are:

• The stitch selector dial (picks which stitch you’re using)
• Stitch length dial (how long each stitch will be)
• Stitch width dial (how wide your stitches are—super important for zigzags)
• The reverse button (hold it down to stitch backwards)
• The hand wheel (turn it toward you to manually control the needle)
• Tension dial (usually set around 4 for most fabrics—I rarely change mine)
• On/off switch (pretty self-explanatory!)

Winding Your Bobbin

Here’s how to wind that little bobbin that goes underneath your fabric:

1. Position your thread spool on the horizontal pin with the thread coming from underneath
2. Secure it with the right size spool holder (small for small spools, larger for bigger ones)
3. Wrap the thread around the tension disc from back to front—make sure you hear it click between those discs.
4. Take your empty bobbin and feed the thread from inside to outside through the little hole
5. Place the bobbin on the silver winder pin and push down hard
6. Push the bobbin to the right
7. Pull out the hand wheel (this disconnects the needle so it won’t move while winding)
8. Hold the thread end tightly and wind it a few times around the bobbin
9. Cut off that little tail
10. Let it wind until full (it’ll stop automatically)
11. Push the bobbin back to the left, lift it off, and trim the thread
12. Don’t forget to push the hand wheel back in so your machine will stitch again!

Thread Positioning Matters

Quick sidebar about thread positioning that most beginners don’t know:

There are two types of thread spools:

• Cross-wound thread (zigzags up and down the spool)—this is the most common
• Stacked thread (thread sits neatly one layer on top of another)—less common nowadays

For cross-wound thread, you want it coming off the end of the spool, so it works great on a horizontal pin.

For stacked thread, you want it coming off at a right angle, so it’s better on a vertical pin. If you put stacked thread on a horizontal pin, it’ll catch and drive you crazy.

Threading Your Machine

Now for the main event—threading your machine:

1. Start with your thread on the spool pin with the proper holder
2. Follow the thread guide at the back (usually a little slide area with arrows)
3. Go down the first channel all the way
4. Cross the bottom and come back up the second channel
5. Find the take-up lever (that silver thing that moves up and down)—you might need to turn the hand wheel to bring it up
6. Thread from right to left through the eye of that lever until it clicks
7. Come back down the channel to the needle area
8. Position the thread behind the groove by the needle
9. Thread the needle from front to back (or use the needle threader if you have one)
10. Pull the thread under the foot and toward the back

Inserting the Bobbin

Almost there! Let’s get that bobbin in place:

1. Open the bobbin case (usually a button or arrow to push)
2. Place the bobbin in with the thread going counterclockwise
3. Hold the bobbin with your finger and pull the thread until it clicks into the groove
4. Hold the upper thread, turn the hand wheel one full rotation
5. Pull up the bobbin thread from below
6. Tuck both threads under the foot
7. Close the bobbin case (left edge first, then click down the right)

Changing Needles and Feet

Last but not least, knowing how to change your needle and foot is essential:

To change the needle:

1. Unscrew the little black screw (be ready to catch the needle!)
2. Notice which way the flat side goes (to the back)
3. Insert the new needle, flat side back, pushing it all the way up
4. Tighten the screw firmly

To change the foot:

1. Push the foot forward to remove it
2. Line up the bar on the new foot with the white groove
3. Push them together until you hear a click

And there you have it. You’re all set up and ready to start sewing. Don’t worry if it feels like a lot—muscle memory will kick in faster than you think, and soon you’ll be threading your machine without even thinking about it.

Happy sewing, and remember—every great sewist started as a beginner. ✂️